Furneaux Lodge to Punga Cove

Today was supposed to be the same distance, but much easier. Reminded us of a hike we did when we first arrived in Canada, one a neighbour told us we could do in our “high heeled slippers.” To hardcore BC and NZ trekkers, that translates to 10-20 degree inclines and gullible hikers. It wasn’t bad though, as compared to yesterday. Most of the way was hard packed clay over shale.

So far no blisters, but a small ankle bruise. Thinking back to last year’s Camino, with no foot issues, same toe socks, same boots, what’s the difference? Terrain. Lots thereof. Up, up, up, down, down, down. Repeat.

In 4.75 hours we only passed four others: a local woman with no pack out for a stroll in the middle of nowhere, a cyclist, and a young couple toting their camping gear for two nights along the track.

It was another beautiful hike in perfect weather, serenaded by exotic-to-us birds. When Captain Cook stayed on the island, his shipboard naturalist, John Banks, said “Their voices were certainly the [most] melodious wild music I have ever heard, almost imitating small bells but with the most tuneable silver sound imaginable.” When I get better reception I’ll upload some of the video that includes the singing birds.

We arrived at Punga Cove where we booked a small a-frame cottage for our two night stay. We were upgraded to a larger cabin. Although requiring a slog further up the hill the view was spectacular.

It’s spring here, too early for summer crowds, so there were only eight of us booked into Punga Cove, all of whom were hanging out at the dock bar before climbing that last uphill. There was the usual interesting trail conversation. Where are you from? There was an older couple from Australia and the couple from Colorado from last night, Norm and Lynette, who was not yet five months post knee replacement. We compared our sand fly experiences and got recommendations on effective local products to deal with our minor, but annoying misery. Apparently the worst effects of the bites are yet to come.

Dinner was at the only restaurant, further up the hill. We generally practice frugal travel and dining out habits, but this segment has unintentionally worked out to be a first class glamping (glamorous tramping) experience. I’m not complaining, but can’t get used to it. We ate lamb two ways and fresh monkfish accompanied by an excellent $12 glass of house wine, from the local Marlborough region. Back at the cabin, we had another glass from our toted along California juice box wine stash, a letdown for these spoiled brat hikers. Tomorrow is our scheduled rest day.

Comments

[Karen]

Another beautiful post. Thank you! Doesn’t take much to get spoiled, does it? Had the best ever wine ($13/glass at McCormick & Schmick’s last week).... Elouan Pinot Noir, Oregon 2016. (I usually stick to cab savs).

[Susanne]

sure enjoying your posts re your "glamping"! All wonderful experiences to relive and remember when you get back to your new home!

[Kristen Chambers]

That John Banks had a poetic way with words. I'd love to see and hear those birds.